Saturday, 1 September 2018

Life on the move: Kochis with isolated lifestyle travel from dawn to dusk

Rafiullah Mandokhail

On a windy evening of August, the sun sets over the mountains. A Kochi man out side his black tent waiting for the arrival of his flock of sheep. A young Kochi women in dazzling colorful dress, speckled with mirrors and sequins preparing tea in a blacken old kettle on bushes fire as straw clouding the air with smoke. Another woman next to their tent kneads dough and baking bread while their kids are playing around the tent. These families are neither internally displaced people nor refugees but they are Kochis (nomads).
It is a glimpse and few moments of the Kochis’ daily life routine. It is indeed another world. No politics, no technology and no communication system exist here, but the life still goes on.
The black and white tents are clustered near the historical Zhob River on Waziristan Road in the suburb of Zhob city. The road leads to the tribal areas. It is an eye-catching landscape. The valley of pastureland extends hundreds miles in the extreme corner of Balochistan province.
The word Kochi is taken from Pashto language ‘Koch’ that means migration. The Kochis are locally known as Pawanda or Kadwal – a conservative Pashtoon tribe. The Kochis still manage to cling to their traditional way of life on the move. They are following the historical caravan routes during their semi-annual migrations. Zhob falls on the route of not only Kochis but the Siberian cranes also pass here. The Kochis have kept alive the centuries-old tradition of migration and use hundreds year old route on foot from Damaan to Khurasaan carrying daily use items and accompanied by herds of their cattle. The Kochis speak rustic dialect of Pashto language and own an isolated lifestyle and traditions.
In spring after the snow on the top of mountains melt, they start returning to pastures to cope with climate and feed their hundreds of flocks of sheep. They have tremendous love with their cattle. They tie their waists, fold up the dresses, take down their tents and start their journey. The Kochis pitch tents whenever the day ends and wherever they stop.
Sher Gul, a 39-year-old Kochi, owns hundreds sheep, goats, donkeys and camels. Despite belonging to a well-off Kochi family, Gul seems exhausted in his ‘full of exposure’ life.
Gul says, traveling from dawn to dusk is their life. On the hot noon in piercing sun they role up the tent for ventilation and feel little bit relaxed.
“It doesn’t matter whether it is chilly winter or sizzling summer, our entire life passes in a tent”, says the red-bearded Kochi.
The United Nations report had estimated over two million Kochis migrate into parts of southern Pakistan. Thousands of nomadic families move to Balochistan during the spring and move back during atom season.
Although the semi-annual migration of Kochis led to an important contribution to local market in terms of dairy items, meat and wool, yet Gul says, the people of nearby villages do not allow them to set camps on their grazing land. Although they stay everywhere temporarily.
“During the spring and autumn migrations, it is customary for children to ride on the top of baggage – piled on the camels and donkeys back,” added Sher Gul.
The main source of income is their livestock; these hardy people basically get all needs from their goats and sheep. The prime examples are milk, cheese, yoghurt, ghee, meat and wool.
Travel in the fierce Kochi dogs, which protect the caravans, their camps, and every individual and everything. The healthy animals travel with them also serve as transport for the babies and elderly man and women, as they travel thousands of kilometers round the year.
Another Kochi 54-year-old Musa Khan says, their destination depends on weather and season, adding the grazing this year is better compare to previous years following heavy winter rains.
How the Kochis manage essential commodities, Khan says, they obtain other basic necessities like flour, medicines – both for human use and animal use, tea, sugar and other stuff by selling a sheep or goat in the bazaar they pass through as they move across the two countries.
During the journey the Kochi women do not use veil to conceal their faces as a Pashtoon woman has to traditionally cover her face outside the home and in front of strangers. Kochi women spend their days by bringing water, making dairy products and cooking food. When not traveling then embroidering traditional designs on their cloths and weaving rugs. The newly wed bride and young Kochi girl wear brightly colored dress heavily embroidered and decorated with traditional mirrors, sequins that clink melodically as she moves. Traditional women attire of Kochi woman is so unique for its beautiful look and structure. The rich color and elegant embroidery make Kochi dress charming, stunning and sophisticated.
The writer can be reached at: https://ift.tt/2N7UhJ2



from Daily Pakistan Observer – https://ift.tt/2PlTIca

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